Ever since pu-erh market sky rocketed, it generates a lot of interest in aged tea. Aging tea is not a new invention and not limited to pu-erh. Aging tea is incidental for most, pu-erh and liu An are exceptions. New crops of green pu-erh and liu an are too raw for digestion.
Why age teas while fresh is usually better? Well, supply and demand are rarely equal. Despite the demand for tea, particular quality teas has increased significantly, there are always unsold teas in any type. What do you do with them? Not much other than keep them around and let it age. China tea industry was at a historic low before mid 80's of last century. Hence you see more aged teas from that period of time. However they were gobbled up by the new middle class of new China in the last 10 years, pu-erh market shows how crazy this phenomenon has been.
Tea stored for a long period of time are subject to moisture, mold, oxidation and pest depending on the condition. How to prevent tea from becoming rotten? Clean environment is a must, next is to keep moisture as low as possible and out of the container. Roasting teas at low temperature will achieve the purpose, then stored in sealed container.
Oolong, green and black teas are all ageble. What kind of tea is suitable for aging? Basically any tea. The fundamental requirement is keeping leaf moisture below 5%. Roasting is the key to preserve quality. Environmental influence is one of the elements to consider during roasting on top of the type of tea to roast, the resulting flavor you would like to achieve. Temperature and duration of roastings are key factors. Younger the tea leaves, lower temperature and shorter time. More matured leaves (more fiber) can handle higher temperature and longer roasting time. There is no formula for roasting, not even the same tea roasted in different days at same temperature and timing will end up with same flavors. We can attempt to not mess up a batch then let it evolve over time. That's why tea is so fun and never boring.
Saturday, December 08, 2007
Friday, December 07, 2007
Dan Cong feast
Tea brings people together as a Chinese philosophy for thousands years, it will continue to bring new people and the familiar together for many more years to come in every corner of the world. Here in the southern corner of California, we carry on the tradition on a Sunday afternoon. A few LATA members and tea enthusiasts frequent my shop got together for a session of tea tasting. Cha Xi (tea banquets) are often hosted here lately. Good teas are must, various types of snacks are also part of the feast. For a more complete documentation of this tasting, see Jason's story at pu-erh community. It's interesting how a typical Chinese banquet lasts a couple of hours, while a half day long tea banquet seems too short.It'll require a larger area to host events like this in the future. I am looking forward to Chinese New Year when family, friend and selected customers are invited to attend a huge tea party, celebrating the culture with tea, how appropriate!
During the last tasting, we had a few interesting teas, and a few others we didn't have time to try. 86 vintage Dan Cong, 94 vintage Dan Cong, not sure if we had the 96 Wu Dong Da Ping DC, Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong - courtesy of Danica, Bor Tou - ginger flower. I had to part from the tasting for business issue while tea tasting continued.
Chuan du lao ming cong was sold out without any reserve shortly after its arrival. The few sessions of this tea I brewed varied from time to time. It was the most difficult tea to brew out of all the teas I had. At one point, I was quite disappointed, until I looked further into the "moodiness" of DC. During the latest gathering, I made a special request to Danica to share some of her stash of this tea, brewing with all Chao Zhou tea wares, from pots, to stove, to water boiling pot, to olive pit charcoals. The result was not satisfying either. The challenge was on and would not be settled until I could maximize its potential. I have confidence in the potential of the tea, it just takes all the right elements to bring it out, perhaps I'd have to wait till full moon?! Will came by the next day (Monday), and generously gave me shares of his stash. I roasted the leaves at 80 degrees C for 30 minutes before brewing, the intense floral flavor came out again, honey smooth texture reminded me one of the previous successful session, but more smooth and mellow.
I love Dan Cong, not only because its beautiful aroma, distinctive flavor, the beauty of Phoenix mountain, or just because it's originate from the soil where I'm familiar with. What made me partial to them is its unpredictable nature, its complexity, and the hidden quality of its beauty. It takes patience to discover those qualities, it takes practice to unveil its potential. It's a challenge that drives me to learn, to search, to bring out the best of these little leaves.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Sex or Sexless tea
Does tea trees have sex? By sex, it refers to whether a tea tree blooms and produces seeds. Get your mind out of the gutter!
Some trees produce flowers and seeds and some don't, especially the older trees (century years old) that live in ideal environment. This phenomenon also exist in human race. The more educated people are less likely to have more kids if any at all. Theoretically, these are the people with the right genes and means to carry on human race. Ironic, isn't it!
Among ranges of phoenix mountain, high altitude century old trees survived for hundreds years without producing any seeds. Hence unique with its own flavors as single bushes, different from the tree next to it. For this very reason, it's a significant lost once a tree dies. The natural habitat of these century old trees are shielded from decease, the climate is ideal for their longevity. Cause of death of old trees are usually man made, chopped down by human. Ever since cloning method was used to plant small trees from branches, these unique old trees can be "preserved" with their legacy flavors.
One may ask, how come clones from the same tree can bloom and produce seeds? It's nothing more than the law of nature - specie survival. When the livelihood of the tree is threaten by nature, such as lack of nutrition/water/nourishment, harsh weather, the survival mechanism kicks in, it will start blooming, massively producing seeds, ensuring the birth of next generations in case the mother tree can not survive. Trees that blooms are usually abandoned hill side farms in lower altitudes facing west. Well, perhaps in a couple of hundred years, any trees still alive at that time will become the most sought after flavors.
Some trees produce flowers and seeds and some don't, especially the older trees (century years old) that live in ideal environment. This phenomenon also exist in human race. The more educated people are less likely to have more kids if any at all. Theoretically, these are the people with the right genes and means to carry on human race. Ironic, isn't it!
Among ranges of phoenix mountain, high altitude century old trees survived for hundreds years without producing any seeds. Hence unique with its own flavors as single bushes, different from the tree next to it. For this very reason, it's a significant lost once a tree dies. The natural habitat of these century old trees are shielded from decease, the climate is ideal for their longevity. Cause of death of old trees are usually man made, chopped down by human. Ever since cloning method was used to plant small trees from branches, these unique old trees can be "preserved" with their legacy flavors.
One may ask, how come clones from the same tree can bloom and produce seeds? It's nothing more than the law of nature - specie survival. When the livelihood of the tree is threaten by nature, such as lack of nutrition/water/nourishment, harsh weather, the survival mechanism kicks in, it will start blooming, massively producing seeds, ensuring the birth of next generations in case the mother tree can not survive. Trees that blooms are usually abandoned hill side farms in lower altitudes facing west. Well, perhaps in a couple of hundred years, any trees still alive at that time will become the most sought after flavors.
Smokeless charcoal
I burn some olive pit charcoal to compliment my new Dan Congs arrived today. Flash light was used when taking the top picture. These charcoals are still black in whole, and a few with small area of white ashes. Not a trace of smoke is coming out of these charcoals, however smell of the charcoal are apparent and pleasant. The second picture shows the actual flame, still no smoke. It's been burning for less than 5 minutes in these pictures.
There are speculations of smoke from burning charcoals. Wood burning smoke are common food preps to enhance flavor of meat, dairy products in both the west and east. It's also used to add flavors to tea, ie Lapsang Souchong. In some instances, it can be accidental, ie Russian Caravan. Traditionally, all tea were heat dried by wood/charcoal fire before electricity was born, or sun/air dried. Wood fired teas could very well absorb flavor of the wood and smoke from wood. However charcoal on the other hand is much less smoky than wood. Traditional Anxi charcoal roasted TGY does not have a signature smoky flavor, neither does Taiwan Tan Pei Cha (charcoal roasted tea). Smoke comes from burning off moisture, oil, jelly and other chemicals between wood fiber.
Modern day bamboo charcoal making is not just putting a log of bamboo on fire and letting it turn black. Logs of bamboo are placed in large kiln like ovens, then heat up to 800°C, while carbonizing fibers, chemicals are extracted into bamboo vinegar. The finishing products are carbons with very little chemical residues. Hence very little to no smoke when burning. If charcoals were not stored properly, ie moisture got in the charcoal for a period of time, bacteria and other organic live forms develop over these charcoal. When burning such charcoal will release smoke and funky taste.
Olive pit charcoal are made with similar high heat "baking" method.
Like tea, fresh carbonized charcoal is the key to smokeless and odorless charcoal burning, hence does not smoke our teas.
There are speculations of smoke from burning charcoals. Wood burning smoke are common food preps to enhance flavor of meat, dairy products in both the west and east. It's also used to add flavors to tea, ie Lapsang Souchong. In some instances, it can be accidental, ie Russian Caravan. Traditionally, all tea were heat dried by wood/charcoal fire before electricity was born, or sun/air dried. Wood fired teas could very well absorb flavor of the wood and smoke from wood. However charcoal on the other hand is much less smoky than wood. Traditional Anxi charcoal roasted TGY does not have a signature smoky flavor, neither does Taiwan Tan Pei Cha (charcoal roasted tea). Smoke comes from burning off moisture, oil, jelly and other chemicals between wood fiber.
Modern day bamboo charcoal making is not just putting a log of bamboo on fire and letting it turn black. Logs of bamboo are placed in large kiln like ovens, then heat up to 800°C, while carbonizing fibers, chemicals are extracted into bamboo vinegar. The finishing products are carbons with very little chemical residues. Hence very little to no smoke when burning. If charcoals were not stored properly, ie moisture got in the charcoal for a period of time, bacteria and other organic live forms develop over these charcoal. When burning such charcoal will release smoke and funky taste.
Olive pit charcoal are made with similar high heat "baking" method.
Like tea, fresh carbonized charcoal is the key to smokeless and odorless charcoal burning, hence does not smoke our teas.
Monday, November 26, 2007
More Dan Cong
My mail man came in to drop off a couple of letters as usual, then he said "I got a box for you, be right back." I replied, a box??? Where did it come from???? I am expecting a few boxes, which one I want the most???? Before I figure out which one I want more, the mail man came back. I saw Chinese on the box, quickly I saw where this box was originated. My heart started pounding!
My friend Mary looked at me: Is that tea?
Me: It is weed!
Mary: I stopped smoking at 19.
Me: I am hooked for life.
Mary: You look high.
Me: Wanna get high now?
We both laughed...
My new order of Dan Cong arrived after a slight delay. Inside this box are some of the oddest Dan Cong you can imagine and some unusual grade but famous DC, of course aged DCs from 90's and 80's that made my heart beats escalate at very rapid rate.
Zei Shi (Thief Stool) 2006 - hmmmm how appetizing!
Ao Fu Hou (Concave Prosperity Queen) 2007 - Huang Zhi Xiang (orange flower) BEAUTIFUL flavor!
Bor Tou (Ginger flower) 2006
86 vintage DC, smooth as red wine
94 vintage DC
96 Wu Dong Da Ping DC, smooth, "experienced" at "prime"
2 more boxes are on the way, including some 97 vintage DC...
My friend Mary looked at me: Is that tea?
Me: It is weed!
Mary: I stopped smoking at 19.
Me: I am hooked for life.
Mary: You look high.
Me: Wanna get high now?
We both laughed...
My new order of Dan Cong arrived after a slight delay. Inside this box are some of the oddest Dan Cong you can imagine and some unusual grade but famous DC, of course aged DCs from 90's and 80's that made my heart beats escalate at very rapid rate.
Zei Shi (Thief Stool) 2006 - hmmmm how appetizing!
Ao Fu Hou (Concave Prosperity Queen) 2007 - Huang Zhi Xiang (orange flower) BEAUTIFUL flavor!
Bor Tou (Ginger flower) 2006
86 vintage DC, smooth as red wine
94 vintage DC
96 Wu Dong Da Ping DC, smooth, "experienced" at "prime"
2 more boxes are on the way, including some 97 vintage DC...
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Cute boys
My boys reading under a willow tree! They are so cute, I had to get them. Books they are reading are "Dao De Jing" - The Classic of Moral.
Celadon jar
My latest find, a beautiful celadon jar. I don't know what to use it for yet. It's just lovely to have it around.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Kung Fu Tea the real style
Nowadays, Tea presentation/ceremony are popular due to revival of Chinese tea culture. Pretty girls dress in traditional clothing, sitting up and straight, shoulders leveled and balanced, making tea in fixed procedures, showing off tea with "orchid" hands - stick out pinkies. It's a performance to entertain.
Real life tea drinking, on the other hand, I feel it does not have to be so pretentious. Tea is secondary when a group of friends get together for tea, as the conversations carry on and in between, "wow, this tea is wonderful, I love the flavor". That's the kind of tea drinking is all about in real life.
Chao Zhou Kung Fu Tea dates more than 800 years back, the most comprehensive of all in every way. At the same time, it's so simple, inelaborate, cultural in the most common way. The more I learn about it, the more I want to spend a good part of my life there when time permits.
Tea culture at level as presented in above photo struck me to the core, I'd so shamelessly invite myself to sit down on the floor with these old men for a cup of tea if I happened to walk by one day!
Monday, November 12, 2007
Tea party in Camellia blooming season
You just never know who's going to show up to start a tea party that would go on beyond closing time. My friend Ming brought her friend along this afternoon, a friend she'd consider as Cha Xian (tea fairy), who's quite elaborate with her utensils, especially for what she brought over to have tea at a "tea shop".
Camilia flowers are blooming brilliantly and vibrantly in the misty air. Pink petals are so delicate, seems as the pink would drip off the petal any second, soft as lover's kisses....
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Da Hong Pao
WuYi tea is rather confusing to many tea drinkers. 2 main types of Wuyi tea by physical location of the trees: Rock teas and Zhou (Water side) teas. Rock teas are trees grown on cliffs of Wuyi mountain, Zhou teas are grown next to streams - lower altitude.
Here I talk about Rock teas briefly. Rock teas can be roughly divided into the following categories: Ming Cong (famous bush), varietals (produce large crops in tea farms), and Cai Cha (over all grouping of original local tea trees). Both Ming Cong and varietals are selections of good quality trees from Cai Cha. Before cloning was widely used to reproduce young trees, growing from seeds could not stabilize genetic, therefore Ming Congs are single bushes harvested, processed and sold uniquely. Other more stable varietals such as Shui Xian and Rou Gui can be widely sow and grown to produce large quantities.
Notorious names of Rock teas come to mind are: Da Hong Pao, Shui Jin Gui, Bai Ji Guan and so on. More than 800 varieties by name as currently known and documented by WuYi tea research institution. The name of the 800+ varieties can be separated according to myth (DHP), location (Zheng Huang Long), leaf shape (Bai Ji Guan), harvest time (Bu Zhi Chun), fragrance (Yue Gui), leaf color (Xiao Hong Mei), varietal (Shui Xian).
Da Hong Pao, despite its name which is widely known to many tea drinkers, the name is used for different concepts.
1) Ming Cong name - name for the group of 6 bushes. There are 6 single bushes (mother trees) still alive on the cliff of Tian Xin Cliff. These 6 bushes were sow from seeds, surviving centuries with its own individual genetic and flavor, even harvest time is different for each bush. Each bush is harvest individual and gone through a preliminary process, then combined all 6 together for final refined process (roasting), final product is about 1 kg each year. This is a blending technically speaking. 20g of DHP of these leave can be sold for $25k at auctions. The entire process is done by Wuyi tea research institute, we common tea drinkers will not have a chance laying our eyes on these precious leaves. They go straight to Zhong Nan Hai where the big shots are. Part of it is used for political purpose, such as the anual 20g DHP auction. Mao gifted half of his DHP to Nixon during his first visit to China in 1972, Nixon told his men that Mao was petty with such small quantity of tea. Little did he know, that's half of the "country" in Mao's words.
2) Varietal name - clones of the 6 DHP bushes now striving and producing in large quantity. In this case, DHP can be as pure as it can be or blended as well. Clones of one bush can be processed and sold on its own taking on the name DHP, or it can be blended with 2, 3, 4, 5 or all 6 of the clones to produce the end product also taking on the name DHP. In this case, varietal name and commercial product names are the same and legit.
3) Commercial product name - name of the end product on the market containing other than DHP varietal. Due to its famous mothers, demand for DHP increases substantially, to meet the market demand, some merchants blend DHP with other rock tea leaves and sold as DHP, or even without any DHP leaves.
Clones of "mother" trees are not exactly children where genetics can be evolved as sowing from seeds. Therefore, not considered as "generations". Clones contain the exact genetics, same flavor, same shape and same aroma. Ages of these clones are not to be mistaken as generations as well. i.e. clones done in the 80's are not "mothers" of the clones done in the 90's. However the age difference does make a significant contribution to Cha Qi. When shopping for DHP, some one tells you it's the second generation, therefore price is high is misleading.
Here I talk about Rock teas briefly. Rock teas can be roughly divided into the following categories: Ming Cong (famous bush), varietals (produce large crops in tea farms), and Cai Cha (over all grouping of original local tea trees). Both Ming Cong and varietals are selections of good quality trees from Cai Cha. Before cloning was widely used to reproduce young trees, growing from seeds could not stabilize genetic, therefore Ming Congs are single bushes harvested, processed and sold uniquely. Other more stable varietals such as Shui Xian and Rou Gui can be widely sow and grown to produce large quantities.
Notorious names of Rock teas come to mind are: Da Hong Pao, Shui Jin Gui, Bai Ji Guan and so on. More than 800 varieties by name as currently known and documented by WuYi tea research institution. The name of the 800+ varieties can be separated according to myth (DHP), location (Zheng Huang Long), leaf shape (Bai Ji Guan), harvest time (Bu Zhi Chun), fragrance (Yue Gui), leaf color (Xiao Hong Mei), varietal (Shui Xian).
Da Hong Pao, despite its name which is widely known to many tea drinkers, the name is used for different concepts.
1) Ming Cong name - name for the group of 6 bushes. There are 6 single bushes (mother trees) still alive on the cliff of Tian Xin Cliff. These 6 bushes were sow from seeds, surviving centuries with its own individual genetic and flavor, even harvest time is different for each bush. Each bush is harvest individual and gone through a preliminary process, then combined all 6 together for final refined process (roasting), final product is about 1 kg each year. This is a blending technically speaking. 20g of DHP of these leave can be sold for $25k at auctions. The entire process is done by Wuyi tea research institute, we common tea drinkers will not have a chance laying our eyes on these precious leaves. They go straight to Zhong Nan Hai where the big shots are. Part of it is used for political purpose, such as the anual 20g DHP auction. Mao gifted half of his DHP to Nixon during his first visit to China in 1972, Nixon told his men that Mao was petty with such small quantity of tea. Little did he know, that's half of the "country" in Mao's words.
2) Varietal name - clones of the 6 DHP bushes now striving and producing in large quantity. In this case, DHP can be as pure as it can be or blended as well. Clones of one bush can be processed and sold on its own taking on the name DHP, or it can be blended with 2, 3, 4, 5 or all 6 of the clones to produce the end product also taking on the name DHP. In this case, varietal name and commercial product names are the same and legit.
3) Commercial product name - name of the end product on the market containing other than DHP varietal. Due to its famous mothers, demand for DHP increases substantially, to meet the market demand, some merchants blend DHP with other rock tea leaves and sold as DHP, or even without any DHP leaves.
Clones of "mother" trees are not exactly children where genetics can be evolved as sowing from seeds. Therefore, not considered as "generations". Clones contain the exact genetics, same flavor, same shape and same aroma. Ages of these clones are not to be mistaken as generations as well. i.e. clones done in the 80's are not "mothers" of the clones done in the 90's. However the age difference does make a significant contribution to Cha Qi. When shopping for DHP, some one tells you it's the second generation, therefore price is high is misleading.
Saturday, November 03, 2007
PV brats embracing tea culture
This ought to turn some of us long time tea drinkers to shame! Through out the years of drinking non-commercially, I accumulate tea wares and a lot of teas, just like most of you do. However, not to the extend as some of these new drinkers.
Within a couple of months, began with drinking in a glass infuser cup, to drinking kung fu tea with some of the best teas on the planet, and now owning a whole set of tea wares (tray, gaiwan set, clay pot, named personal cup, caddies, coasters that match) all fit in a portable leather box. On top of all that, a new rug, new tea table, pillows to create a tea corner in private home. That's over the top!
It's very touching and significant for me. Since spreading Chinese tea culture is my ultimate goal, I feel as my intend is achievable. The result encourages me to pursuit my goal with light ahead. While it's fulfilling for myself, it also helps others to live healthy and stylish at young, and most of all, stay away from drug!
Thursday, October 25, 2007
Aged water?
Last Sunday night, Jason invited the local LATA group to have tea at his new place. During the 4 to 5 hours of drinking, a few of us brought our own tea and brewed with a different water had different results compare to brewing at home. We jokingly suggested from now on, we all bring our own water to future tasting events.
What we had experienced further stretch the importance of water, its impact on tea flavor. A classic novel of China "Dreams of the red chamber" had a chapter about tea activities in the compound, describing the extend of water which was used to make tea. A group of young girls (cousins), Bao Yu (a teenage boy) and Miao Yu - a young 17 years old nun having tea at a temple. After Miao Yu made tea for every one, she explained the water was a collection of snow flakes landed on blooming Prune flower petals from the first snow fall in January, stored in a sealed clay jar buried under ground for 3 years. Whether this is true or not, improve our tea or not, the poetic notion makes my tea taste better already.
Other one I heard is taking over night condensations on lotus leaves in early mornings to make tea, which has cooling property in addition to improving taste.
I think a trip up the mountain is necessary in near future. Perhaps after the first snow fall of the season, fill up some mountain fresh melted ice water through cracks of giant rocks sounds like fun. I might bring my stove and make a pot of tea right there and then. HA, that's a thought...
What we had experienced further stretch the importance of water, its impact on tea flavor. A classic novel of China "Dreams of the red chamber" had a chapter about tea activities in the compound, describing the extend of water which was used to make tea. A group of young girls (cousins), Bao Yu (a teenage boy) and Miao Yu - a young 17 years old nun having tea at a temple. After Miao Yu made tea for every one, she explained the water was a collection of snow flakes landed on blooming Prune flower petals from the first snow fall in January, stored in a sealed clay jar buried under ground for 3 years. Whether this is true or not, improve our tea or not, the poetic notion makes my tea taste better already.
Other one I heard is taking over night condensations on lotus leaves in early mornings to make tea, which has cooling property in addition to improving taste.
I think a trip up the mountain is necessary in near future. Perhaps after the first snow fall of the season, fill up some mountain fresh melted ice water through cracks of giant rocks sounds like fun. I might bring my stove and make a pot of tea right there and then. HA, that's a thought...
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
PV brats
One of the joys I get out of having a tea shop, probably the most enjoyable out of all is to spread Chinese tea culture. By saying this, of course not forcing everyone comes through the door to learn what I feel so special and endearing. However when some one truly is inquisitive about the world of tea, it really gets me excited. One of the girls who work here is very much into tea and the whole Chinese tea culture after exposing to it for the last few months. It's quite a sight to watch a blonde girl pouring tea and explaining it to customers with enthusiasm. Her friends also got into tea influenced by her. After a lesson on brewing techniques and taste training, the first thing after school on a Friday afternoon is to drink kung fu tea at my platform. It started with 3 then 4 then 8 then 12 boys and girls showing up on Friday afternoons, Saturdays, some times even Sundays whenever they get a chance, spending 3 to 5 hours at a time, going through 3 or more teas, buying and sharing the most high end teas. It's rather amazing, not quite as I expected before I opened the shop, but definite a good thing for these kids, it's a better and healthier addiction than drug!
PV, as most kids here say, "I just want to grow up to be a normal person", without knowing they will never be normal, living here is realistically not the norm of this society. 1/2 of the kids smoke and take drugs, mainly because they have too much spending money. Their parents are hard working business people whom have very little time to spend with their kids, materials are substitutions of love and time. My friend Ming (a PV mom) said to me "how are they going to live without good tea from now on or live anywhere else with no access of good tea? You spoil them!". I then said to her, I am glad I'll have access to good tea even if I don't run a tea shop later in my life. Despite what's available on the market, I know where to get my good stocks of tea, how fortunate is that!
PV, as most kids here say, "I just want to grow up to be a normal person", without knowing they will never be normal, living here is realistically not the norm of this society. 1/2 of the kids smoke and take drugs, mainly because they have too much spending money. Their parents are hard working business people whom have very little time to spend with their kids, materials are substitutions of love and time. My friend Ming (a PV mom) said to me "how are they going to live without good tea from now on or live anywhere else with no access of good tea? You spoil them!". I then said to her, I am glad I'll have access to good tea even if I don't run a tea shop later in my life. Despite what's available on the market, I know where to get my good stocks of tea, how fortunate is that!
Custom made tea pots
Members of the LA Tea Affair (LATA)had ordered custom made Yixing pots with help from Marshaln, Action Jackson and friend of Marshaln. They finally arrived last week. Each and every pot are made with same clay, style (shui ping hu) and size with our own choice of chop marks at the bottom of the pot. 3 of the 4 pots I have are marked with my tea shop name in Chinese for obvious reasons. The 4th is marked as "double happiness", a few other members also have the same chops. Double happiness is used for wedding/marriage related decoration/description/wishes in Chinese culture. A couple members got engaged this year, therefore it is a well suited memoroir for a tea addict. Although I am not getting married any time soon, but wishful thinking will work for now.
It was lovely how AJ put together the box, including a hand written letter to the crew, a post card for Jason, also a couple samples of tuo cha from Marshaln and AJ out of generosity. They are now in possession of Jason for future tasting event in the west side of the town. Many thanks to everyone who put in the time and effort to help us fulfill our passionate pursuit of tea!
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Chao Zhou Clay Stove Set with Olive Pit Charcoal
Tea culture in Chao Zhou, province of Guang Dong China has a long history known to be the oldest form of tea art in present days.
The following is one of the local tea ware of must have when making a good cup of fabulous Phoenix Dan Cong oolong. Clay pot made of local red clay for boiling water, a little portable clay stove made to retain heat within, and the last but not the least important element is Olive pit charcoal. Rustic style, coarse texture, however works wonders!
The clay pot for boiling water is made extremely porous, water can sip through the wall slowly. When heated, vapor is visible from the outside. Water quality is significantly improved after boiled in this pot. Metal tea kettle makes flat and hard water. This clay pot makes sweet, round, full body, and soft water that greatly enhances the flavor of tea. Tea liquid slips down from tongue to throat smoothly like ice cream. The texture is so full, it makes you feel as the space between upper mouth and tongue has increased.
Portable stove is made with thick wall all around, a small opening at the bottom ensures airflow. Thick clay wall serves as an insulation layer which keeps heat within the stove, heating only the bottom of clay pot. A sliding "door" can be move left or right for control of air flow, in turn controls temperature.
Olive pit charcoal is a miracle, in my opinion at least. This is a local black olive varietal from Chao Zhou, unlike Italian Olive, it's low in oil, hence soot free when burning. These charcoal releases an aroma when burning, the aroma burns through the porous wall of clay pot, further enhances the water flavor, hence enhances tea flavor.
Tea culture of Chao Zhou is extremely comprehensive. The region not only produces the best oolong tea, its natural resources made it possible to expand tea experience beyond agricultural. The Chao Zhou Zhu Ni clay pots, the unique floral aroma of Phoenix tea, the olive trees, the wisdom and accumulated experience through out the centuries, together give us this magnificent gift of tea culture. I feel extremely lucky having such exposure and access. My own tea experience has elevated to a level where I truly feel content with what I have to make a great cup of tea. Of course, I will not stop here. My final stop would be to retire in the mountain of Phoenix for part of the year, soak in the pure mist nourishing the soil and tea trees, drink century years old tea and watch sunrise from top of the clouds.
The following is one of the local tea ware of must have when making a good cup of fabulous Phoenix Dan Cong oolong. Clay pot made of local red clay for boiling water, a little portable clay stove made to retain heat within, and the last but not the least important element is Olive pit charcoal. Rustic style, coarse texture, however works wonders!
The clay pot for boiling water is made extremely porous, water can sip through the wall slowly. When heated, vapor is visible from the outside. Water quality is significantly improved after boiled in this pot. Metal tea kettle makes flat and hard water. This clay pot makes sweet, round, full body, and soft water that greatly enhances the flavor of tea. Tea liquid slips down from tongue to throat smoothly like ice cream. The texture is so full, it makes you feel as the space between upper mouth and tongue has increased.
Portable stove is made with thick wall all around, a small opening at the bottom ensures airflow. Thick clay wall serves as an insulation layer which keeps heat within the stove, heating only the bottom of clay pot. A sliding "door" can be move left or right for control of air flow, in turn controls temperature.
Olive pit charcoal is a miracle, in my opinion at least. This is a local black olive varietal from Chao Zhou, unlike Italian Olive, it's low in oil, hence soot free when burning. These charcoal releases an aroma when burning, the aroma burns through the porous wall of clay pot, further enhances the water flavor, hence enhances tea flavor.
Tea culture of Chao Zhou is extremely comprehensive. The region not only produces the best oolong tea, its natural resources made it possible to expand tea experience beyond agricultural. The Chao Zhou Zhu Ni clay pots, the unique floral aroma of Phoenix tea, the olive trees, the wisdom and accumulated experience through out the centuries, together give us this magnificent gift of tea culture. I feel extremely lucky having such exposure and access. My own tea experience has elevated to a level where I truly feel content with what I have to make a great cup of tea. Of course, I will not stop here. My final stop would be to retire in the mountain of Phoenix for part of the year, soak in the pure mist nourishing the soil and tea trees, drink century years old tea and watch sunrise from top of the clouds.
LATA celebrates Mid Autumn Festival
Last Saturday was the LATA (LA Tea Affair) meeting for yet another session of serial tea drinking. Members of the group including Will, Louise, Danica and myself, friend of mine Ming, friends of Danica - Angie and David from 1001 Plateau also joined the group and share their special teas. We had Moon Cakes, pumpkin seeds, Mochi, almond candies, dried plums and other traditional Chinese tea snacks while sipping tea and chatting away. Time flies when companies are great! Being Chinese, traditions as such are usually customary, however sharing with others whom embrace the cultural differences with such enthusiasm is rather touching to my heart. Toast to the Full Moon with a cup of Zhi Lan Xiang!
LATA is a group of tea enthusiasts join together occasionally to share tea, build friendships, learn from each other, most importantly share our passion for these precious leaves. The organization has been found less than a year, we already had many semi-formal/informal tasting sessions at private homes of members and my tea shop. We have come together as tea fanatics and transcending to friendships. No wonder the old Chinese wisdom says "Tea brings people together". I am one of those lucky ones to live it up.
Angie and David shared their rare Da Hong Pao and Rou Gui, which both are excellent teas. And warm welcome to both of them from all of us at LATA!
Leaves of Da Hong Pao: amazingly large leaf, very tasty and long lasting.
LATA is a group of tea enthusiasts join together occasionally to share tea, build friendships, learn from each other, most importantly share our passion for these precious leaves. The organization has been found less than a year, we already had many semi-formal/informal tasting sessions at private homes of members and my tea shop. We have come together as tea fanatics and transcending to friendships. No wonder the old Chinese wisdom says "Tea brings people together". I am one of those lucky ones to live it up.
Angie and David shared their rare Da Hong Pao and Rou Gui, which both are excellent teas. And warm welcome to both of them from all of us at LATA!
Leaves of Da Hong Pao: amazingly large leaf, very tasty and long lasting.
Friday, September 28, 2007
My little tea corner
Chao Zhou pots for Phoenix Dan Cong... These are my own collection of Chao Zhou pots, I'm particularly affectionate toward pear shape tea pots, any size, any shape.
Monday, September 24, 2007
What is Phoenix Dan Cong?
Phoenix Dan Cong is an Oolong tea, has a long history dates back to Tang dynasty. Chao Zhou Kung Fu Tea is well preserved live chronical history in tea culture. The mountain ranges of Phoenix has long been the nurturing soil of the local tea trees. There are less then 10 thousand old single bushes alive on these mountain ranges today. There were 20 thousand at the turn of the 1900, war and unstable politics were the main cause of ecology decline in the region and the entire country. Wu Dong mountain is the best among the ranges. The oldest bush believe to be about 600 years old, one of the Song Zhong varietal, white leaf type. Although it's the most famous bush world wide, but it's not a tasty tea known by the locals. I have to agree.
Dan Cong is the highest grade among Phoenix tea. Shui Xian being lowest, Lang Chai medium. Dan Cong is a single bush selected for its own distinct aroma and flavor, process separately from other bushes. Hence labor intensive and unique.
Today's commercial grade Dan Cong are cloned using branches from the mother tree, instead of sowing from seeds which flavor can be mutated on its own. Commercial grade Dan Cong contains the exact same aroma and flavor of the mother tree, therefore can be harvested and produce large crops each season unlike the single bush method.
However, old bushes are still processed on its own, one tree at a time today. Farmers are more aware of the plant cycle scientifically, hence better to preserve these old plants by letting them rest for most of the year, harvesting only in the spring.
Dan Cong is the highest grade among Phoenix tea. Shui Xian being lowest, Lang Chai medium. Dan Cong is a single bush selected for its own distinct aroma and flavor, process separately from other bushes. Hence labor intensive and unique.
Today's commercial grade Dan Cong are cloned using branches from the mother tree, instead of sowing from seeds which flavor can be mutated on its own. Commercial grade Dan Cong contains the exact same aroma and flavor of the mother tree, therefore can be harvested and produce large crops each season unlike the single bush method.
However, old bushes are still processed on its own, one tree at a time today. Farmers are more aware of the plant cycle scientifically, hence better to preserve these old plants by letting them rest for most of the year, harvesting only in the spring.
Saturday, September 08, 2007
DRUNK
Today, I reach a new height in tea drinking experience. I had been tea drunk before, the experiences were over dose of caffeine. 2005 Lao Ban Zhang left me jittery hours after just a few grams. 12, 20 teas a day left my brain restless, but not organizationally functional. Today, I got drunk 2.5 times in 6 hours, I think. The last drunk was very similar to an alcohol drunk. My body was warm, itchy on my back, my eyes were stoned, I slurred, and I felt like walking on clouds when I got up. I had to make a quick head turn, and I saw a trail of lights from one shoulder to another. It's been 2 hours, I still feel drunk. After returning home, I just want to pass out.
Jason and Mark stopped by today for tea. Ming was here as well. As a bunch of tea heads, we without doubts had a ton of tea, at some point, we don't even know how much tea we had or what we had. We all got drunk a few times. I got so drunk, I refused to drink more tea after I got home. One tea that particularly hit all 4 of us hard was the Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong Dan Cong. Jason stopped drinking it after 4 cups. We were so buzzed, we all stopped drinking after the 6th infusion. I worried if I could make it home safely. My perception of depth was all off.
Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong is 1 of the 10 best Single Bush trees on Wu Dong Mountain. Only a few pounds are produced each spring. I got my hands on 500g, the anticipation of its arrival left me sleepless for many nights. Finally it arrived on Friday afternoon when Will's visiting, just right before he planned to leave. We tried 1g in a gaiwan, it was good but not what we expected (highly). However I did have 2 hours of sweet after taste lingered in my mouth. It was quite nice, but not mind blowing at the time.
This afternoon, I brewed 3g in Jason's Duan Ni pot. First infusion was __, I have no words to describe it. It does not taste like anything I can put a name on. Strange, not mind blowing, but interesting. I was curious to open the lid, WOW!!!!! It smells beautiful! Not nice, not fragrant, not just a regular word of flower. Just beautiful!!! The aroma is amazing, it literally smells like a real orchid, somewhere between a large white Cattlaya and a white Dandrobium. It's pure, drifty, clean, clear, lung opening, with a hint of winter honey sweetness. We kept drinking the second and third infusions, taking very small sips of tea at a time, 3 drops maybe. The flavor of the tea was magnified with each little sip. I still don't have a word for it. Honey like sweetness increased with each brew. Jason took away his cup while I was still trying to think of a word to describe it. By that time, we were all drunk and talking gibberish. I remember I said something like laying on clouds drinking cloud. Jason got up to walk off the buzz. Over all, I still don't know how to describe this tea. It left me contemplating, chasing something illusive. Maybe this is why it cost so much. The drunken effect justifies the price perhaps?! It was a fun eventful drinking afternoon.
Here is a list of tea I (we) drank today, I am still drunk that I may skip a couple here and there.
Small bud gold tip Yunnan black
Imperial loose pu 2006
Wuyi Rou Gui
Huang Zi Xiang Dan Cong
Honey Orchid Dan Cong
Bor Tou (ginger flower) Dan Cong (Jason, Mark and Ming arrived)
07 pu-erh mao cha
ALi Shan high mountain oolong (My roasting batch)
Fo Cha Ji loose pu 2004
Wuyi Te Luo Han
Zi Lan Xiang Dan Cong
Honey Orchid Dan Cong
92 CNNP Red lable Meng Hai
* first time drunk*
92 CNNP red label Meng Hai (roasted)
76 Roasted Baozhong
2007 Oriental Beauty
70's pu
Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong Dan Cong 07
*completely drunk*
Jason and Mark stopped by today for tea. Ming was here as well. As a bunch of tea heads, we without doubts had a ton of tea, at some point, we don't even know how much tea we had or what we had. We all got drunk a few times. I got so drunk, I refused to drink more tea after I got home. One tea that particularly hit all 4 of us hard was the Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong Dan Cong. Jason stopped drinking it after 4 cups. We were so buzzed, we all stopped drinking after the 6th infusion. I worried if I could make it home safely. My perception of depth was all off.
Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong is 1 of the 10 best Single Bush trees on Wu Dong Mountain. Only a few pounds are produced each spring. I got my hands on 500g, the anticipation of its arrival left me sleepless for many nights. Finally it arrived on Friday afternoon when Will's visiting, just right before he planned to leave. We tried 1g in a gaiwan, it was good but not what we expected (highly). However I did have 2 hours of sweet after taste lingered in my mouth. It was quite nice, but not mind blowing at the time.
This afternoon, I brewed 3g in Jason's Duan Ni pot. First infusion was __, I have no words to describe it. It does not taste like anything I can put a name on. Strange, not mind blowing, but interesting. I was curious to open the lid, WOW!!!!! It smells beautiful! Not nice, not fragrant, not just a regular word of flower. Just beautiful!!! The aroma is amazing, it literally smells like a real orchid, somewhere between a large white Cattlaya and a white Dandrobium. It's pure, drifty, clean, clear, lung opening, with a hint of winter honey sweetness. We kept drinking the second and third infusions, taking very small sips of tea at a time, 3 drops maybe. The flavor of the tea was magnified with each little sip. I still don't have a word for it. Honey like sweetness increased with each brew. Jason took away his cup while I was still trying to think of a word to describe it. By that time, we were all drunk and talking gibberish. I remember I said something like laying on clouds drinking cloud. Jason got up to walk off the buzz. Over all, I still don't know how to describe this tea. It left me contemplating, chasing something illusive. Maybe this is why it cost so much. The drunken effect justifies the price perhaps?! It was a fun eventful drinking afternoon.
Here is a list of tea I (we) drank today, I am still drunk that I may skip a couple here and there.
Small bud gold tip Yunnan black
Imperial loose pu 2006
Wuyi Rou Gui
Huang Zi Xiang Dan Cong
Honey Orchid Dan Cong
Bor Tou (ginger flower) Dan Cong (Jason, Mark and Ming arrived)
07 pu-erh mao cha
ALi Shan high mountain oolong (My roasting batch)
Fo Cha Ji loose pu 2004
Wuyi Te Luo Han
Zi Lan Xiang Dan Cong
Honey Orchid Dan Cong
92 CNNP Red lable Meng Hai
* first time drunk*
92 CNNP red label Meng Hai (roasted)
76 Roasted Baozhong
2007 Oriental Beauty
70's pu
Chuan Du Lao Ming Cong Dan Cong 07
*completely drunk*
Friday, September 07, 2007
Where in the tea world are you?
In the world of tea, where are we, where am I, what is my function in this ever evolving sphere? I found this article in Chinese, the author logically places each and every one of us in a systematical spot in the world of tea base on our knowledge of tea. I translate it and put in my 2 cents worth of thoughts.
1st layer(outer) which is made up of majority of people whom are tea drinkers/consumers.
2nd layer which is made up of tea merchants, people who sell tea as a profession. (moi)
3rd layer which is made up of tea processors, people with skills to turn a green leaf into dried commercial product.
4th layer which is made up of tea farmers, people who grow, maintain, collect leaves from trees.
Consumers are end users who are the least knowledgeable of tea, however their preference is the driving force of the tea business.
Tea merchants posses skills to brew a good cup of tea, a translator/communicators between tea producers and consumers. This group of people know a broad spectrum of tea from every category/type/region, learn about each tea's characteristics and brewing properties. Their knowledge and opinions serve as guidelines, they direct and collect feed backs of trends. I direct my customers toward oolong. Tea merchants can be tea processors at the same time. My latest batch is a medium roasted Ali Shan high mountain tea. The whole process took 3 days at various temperatures. Taste good when hot, cold brew is exceptional!
Tea processors are skilled "chefs" whom turn raw materials into tasty meals. There are endless recipes of existing flavors, and endless possibilities to create new recipes. The best chefs are those whom can improvise base on existing skills and traditional methods, able to recognize and extend strengths of a tea. However, market trend also limits possibilities to think out side of the box. Popularity and exceptional quality are usually unparalleled. Tea processors are specialist of a certain type of tea, rarely cross types. Most tea processors are whole sale tea merchants.
Tea farmers are those grow and nurture plants of tea. This group specialize in a certain verietal as well due to geographic limitation. Majority of them are semi processors producing mao cha before selling to tea processors/merchants.
My personal development began as a common tea drinker to tea taster, now a retail tea merchant, beginning tea processor. I expect to spend many years hovering at this level, learning, practicing, refining my skills. One day I hope to retire in mountain ranges of Phoenix mountain, attend to a couple of old Dan Cong bushes, pick, process, roast and drink from these bushes. I then can say I have been through all 4 layers of the tea sphere.
1st layer(outer) which is made up of majority of people whom are tea drinkers/consumers.
2nd layer which is made up of tea merchants, people who sell tea as a profession. (moi)
3rd layer which is made up of tea processors, people with skills to turn a green leaf into dried commercial product.
4th layer which is made up of tea farmers, people who grow, maintain, collect leaves from trees.
Consumers are end users who are the least knowledgeable of tea, however their preference is the driving force of the tea business.
Tea merchants posses skills to brew a good cup of tea, a translator/communicators between tea producers and consumers. This group of people know a broad spectrum of tea from every category/type/region, learn about each tea's characteristics and brewing properties. Their knowledge and opinions serve as guidelines, they direct and collect feed backs of trends. I direct my customers toward oolong. Tea merchants can be tea processors at the same time. My latest batch is a medium roasted Ali Shan high mountain tea. The whole process took 3 days at various temperatures. Taste good when hot, cold brew is exceptional!
Tea processors are skilled "chefs" whom turn raw materials into tasty meals. There are endless recipes of existing flavors, and endless possibilities to create new recipes. The best chefs are those whom can improvise base on existing skills and traditional methods, able to recognize and extend strengths of a tea. However, market trend also limits possibilities to think out side of the box. Popularity and exceptional quality are usually unparalleled. Tea processors are specialist of a certain type of tea, rarely cross types. Most tea processors are whole sale tea merchants.
Tea farmers are those grow and nurture plants of tea. This group specialize in a certain verietal as well due to geographic limitation. Majority of them are semi processors producing mao cha before selling to tea processors/merchants.
My personal development began as a common tea drinker to tea taster, now a retail tea merchant, beginning tea processor. I expect to spend many years hovering at this level, learning, practicing, refining my skills. One day I hope to retire in mountain ranges of Phoenix mountain, attend to a couple of old Dan Cong bushes, pick, process, roast and drink from these bushes. I then can say I have been through all 4 layers of the tea sphere.
Natural floral flavor in a tea leaf
Floral note is one of the most frequently used term in tea taste description. Where does it come from? How come broccoli does not have a floral note, but a tea leaf does?
Oolong tea naturally posses lovely floral aroma, especially those grown in high altitude mountain ranges. The climate provides what it takes to produce high quality tea. Cloud hovers around 800 meters above sea level, tea grown at that altitude has the best flavors. Cloud provides constant moisture and blocks direct sunlight, however ultra-violet ray can still penetrate thick cloud layers, providing light for leaves to grow at a much slower rate, chlorophyll, tannin, essential oil concentration is higher than lower altitude plants, hence fuller in flavor and body with more intense aroma.
Oolong tea naturally posses lovely floral aroma, especially those grown in high altitude mountain ranges. The climate provides what it takes to produce high quality tea. Cloud hovers around 800 meters above sea level, tea grown at that altitude has the best flavors. Cloud provides constant moisture and blocks direct sunlight, however ultra-violet ray can still penetrate thick cloud layers, providing light for leaves to grow at a much slower rate, chlorophyll, tannin, essential oil concentration is higher than lower altitude plants, hence fuller in flavor and body with more intense aroma.
Wednesday, September 05, 2007
Why and how to raise a pot? (4)
4th topic, how to raise a clay pot?
Very first step is to season a pot. Clay pots were fired at lower temperature usually remain an earthy smell. Seasoning a pot is to rid of earthy smell. Brush new pot with clean toothbrush under water. Submerge cleaned tea pot in a large clean (oil free, odor free) cooking pot filled with purified water, bring it to boil and "cook" for 30 min, rinse hot teapot under cold water. For good quality clay pot, it should be good to start brewing tea. If clay smell persist, repeat boiling and cold water rinse a couple more times, add tea leaves to boiling water during last boil, let teapot steep in tea over night, rinse in the morning before brewing tea.
Step 2, find a suitable tea for the pot. In order to find out what tea can be enhanced by a clay pot, it's best to compare flavors of the same tea with same quantity, water, temperature and timing in a gaiwan and clay pot side by side. Gaiwan brings out the true flavor of a tea, both good and the bad. By comparison, if tea brewed from a clay pot taste better than gaiwan, then it is meant to be a pair. In most cases, it takes a few hit and miss to pair up a pot. Brewing a few different teas in the same pot will not intermix flavors of the subsequent tea while it's new. Raising a pot takes time and attention. If you do worry about that, just re-season the pot again by boiling then rinsing in cold water, repeat until you can't smell any flavor.
After you decide what tea to brew with a clay pot, the lengthy process of raising a clay pot will begin. I posted a short version of how to raise a clay pot here.
External raise can be done with various methods: polish with cotton cloth after pouring tea over exterior, or brush with tea then polish/dry with cotton cloth after each use, or rub with bare hand and tea then polish/dry with cotton cloth after each use. Each pour of tea is an additional layer of essential/tea substance deposit on top of each. Polishing/buffing is to evenly distribute these deposits. This step is to improve the cosmetic of a teapot, it has very little to do with the flavor of tea.
To conclude it all, the purpose of raising a clay pot is to enhance the flavor, improve the exterior beauty of a pot, extend the over all tea experience and a measurement of how obsessive you are about tea.
Clay pots are best for oolong and pu-erh. Green/white/yellow/herbal tea do not require the use of clay pot. Black tea is better in china ware. Porous pots are better with ching xiang fragrant greener type of oolong and new green pu-erh, ie duan ni or purple clay. Less porous pots are better for heavier roasted oolong, older/ripe pu-erh, ie zhu ni, xiao hong ni or chao zhou zhu ni. This is only a rough guideline. There are exceptions to rules, and there are surprises to exceptions. Experiment every possibility with every imagination.
Very first step is to season a pot. Clay pots were fired at lower temperature usually remain an earthy smell. Seasoning a pot is to rid of earthy smell. Brush new pot with clean toothbrush under water. Submerge cleaned tea pot in a large clean (oil free, odor free) cooking pot filled with purified water, bring it to boil and "cook" for 30 min, rinse hot teapot under cold water. For good quality clay pot, it should be good to start brewing tea. If clay smell persist, repeat boiling and cold water rinse a couple more times, add tea leaves to boiling water during last boil, let teapot steep in tea over night, rinse in the morning before brewing tea.
Step 2, find a suitable tea for the pot. In order to find out what tea can be enhanced by a clay pot, it's best to compare flavors of the same tea with same quantity, water, temperature and timing in a gaiwan and clay pot side by side. Gaiwan brings out the true flavor of a tea, both good and the bad. By comparison, if tea brewed from a clay pot taste better than gaiwan, then it is meant to be a pair. In most cases, it takes a few hit and miss to pair up a pot. Brewing a few different teas in the same pot will not intermix flavors of the subsequent tea while it's new. Raising a pot takes time and attention. If you do worry about that, just re-season the pot again by boiling then rinsing in cold water, repeat until you can't smell any flavor.
After you decide what tea to brew with a clay pot, the lengthy process of raising a clay pot will begin. I posted a short version of how to raise a clay pot here.
External raise can be done with various methods: polish with cotton cloth after pouring tea over exterior, or brush with tea then polish/dry with cotton cloth after each use, or rub with bare hand and tea then polish/dry with cotton cloth after each use. Each pour of tea is an additional layer of essential/tea substance deposit on top of each. Polishing/buffing is to evenly distribute these deposits. This step is to improve the cosmetic of a teapot, it has very little to do with the flavor of tea.
To conclude it all, the purpose of raising a clay pot is to enhance the flavor, improve the exterior beauty of a pot, extend the over all tea experience and a measurement of how obsessive you are about tea.
Clay pots are best for oolong and pu-erh. Green/white/yellow/herbal tea do not require the use of clay pot. Black tea is better in china ware. Porous pots are better with ching xiang fragrant greener type of oolong and new green pu-erh, ie duan ni or purple clay. Less porous pots are better for heavier roasted oolong, older/ripe pu-erh, ie zhu ni, xiao hong ni or chao zhou zhu ni. This is only a rough guideline. There are exceptions to rules, and there are surprises to exceptions. Experiment every possibility with every imagination.
Sunday, September 02, 2007
Why and how to raise a pot? (3)
3rd topic: how tea impact the clay hence improves tea itself - why raise a clay teapot?
Now that we have an idea what clay can do to tea, what can tea do to clay? Dissoluble substance of a leaf as we can observe is not colorless. Tea stain is dried such dissoluble substance. We can smell aroma of such substance dissolved in water, we can taste the sweetness/bitterness/astringency of such substance dissolved in water. Fragrance is from distinctive essential oil of a plant. Lavender oil, rose oil or tea oil are all essential oils of its own species. When dissoluble substance and oil are released from a leaf into water inside a clay pot, sip through tiny air hole among clay, when dried, the substance stays in the pores (storage cabinets). More usage of the tea pot the more deposits will be stored away. Polishing a pot is to evenly distribute these essential oil, hence the shine on the exterior. This is cosmetic enhancement of the clay pot appearance.
It's commonly known to use one pot for each specific type of tea, similar in flavor and roasting method. The logistic is to accumulate similar substance in "storage", when making tea, these deposit will be redissolved again some what, hence enhance the tea flavor and aroma. Kinda like cooking a chicken with chicken broth. It's not a myth that a well used clay pot can make fragrant tea with only water. Ceramic and glass wares are not porous materials, therefore can not store away these flavorful substance, neither can they neutralize or react chemically with tea, therefore they can not enhance nor diminish tea flavor, however reflect true flavors.
These 3 articles briefly explains why the need or desire to raise a clay pot. The next article will talk about the techniques in raising a pot.
Now that we have an idea what clay can do to tea, what can tea do to clay? Dissoluble substance of a leaf as we can observe is not colorless. Tea stain is dried such dissoluble substance. We can smell aroma of such substance dissolved in water, we can taste the sweetness/bitterness/astringency of such substance dissolved in water. Fragrance is from distinctive essential oil of a plant. Lavender oil, rose oil or tea oil are all essential oils of its own species. When dissoluble substance and oil are released from a leaf into water inside a clay pot, sip through tiny air hole among clay, when dried, the substance stays in the pores (storage cabinets). More usage of the tea pot the more deposits will be stored away. Polishing a pot is to evenly distribute these essential oil, hence the shine on the exterior. This is cosmetic enhancement of the clay pot appearance.
It's commonly known to use one pot for each specific type of tea, similar in flavor and roasting method. The logistic is to accumulate similar substance in "storage", when making tea, these deposit will be redissolved again some what, hence enhance the tea flavor and aroma. Kinda like cooking a chicken with chicken broth. It's not a myth that a well used clay pot can make fragrant tea with only water. Ceramic and glass wares are not porous materials, therefore can not store away these flavorful substance, neither can they neutralize or react chemically with tea, therefore they can not enhance nor diminish tea flavor, however reflect true flavors.
These 3 articles briefly explains why the need or desire to raise a clay pot. The next article will talk about the techniques in raising a pot.
Saturday, September 01, 2007
Why and how to raise a pot? (2)
2nd topic: how does a clay teapot impact tea?
Clay is made up of minerals, it can neutralize chemicals dissolved in water and tea. Wonder why natural spring water taste great and crystal clear? Evaporated water is pure water, however on the way up to the sky and coming back down to earth as rain or snow, dirty dust and chemical vapor polluting our air attache itself to tiny water drops. Rain become solvent of these unwanted substance drips back down to earth, runs through miles of rocks in river beds and streams, naturally filtered by these rich mineral deposited stones and rocks.
A clay pot is similar to a rocky river bed, pores allow tiny air hole to increase oxidation, porous clay teapot can oxidize and neutralize dissolved chemicals/minerals in water/tea, hence improve taste of liquid in pot. However by doing so, it may also diminish flavor of tea depending on dissolved substance of a particular type of tea leaves. That's the reason why some tea taste better with certain clay type and some don't. The same tea pot may not be good for every tea.
Everything revolving tea is not absolute due to element variations, so much like life, therefore our endeavor of preparing a cup of good tea is never ending. It's a perpetual pursue of experiments.
Clay is made up of minerals, it can neutralize chemicals dissolved in water and tea. Wonder why natural spring water taste great and crystal clear? Evaporated water is pure water, however on the way up to the sky and coming back down to earth as rain or snow, dirty dust and chemical vapor polluting our air attache itself to tiny water drops. Rain become solvent of these unwanted substance drips back down to earth, runs through miles of rocks in river beds and streams, naturally filtered by these rich mineral deposited stones and rocks.
A clay pot is similar to a rocky river bed, pores allow tiny air hole to increase oxidation, porous clay teapot can oxidize and neutralize dissolved chemicals/minerals in water/tea, hence improve taste of liquid in pot. However by doing so, it may also diminish flavor of tea depending on dissolved substance of a particular type of tea leaves. That's the reason why some tea taste better with certain clay type and some don't. The same tea pot may not be good for every tea.
Everything revolving tea is not absolute due to element variations, so much like life, therefore our endeavor of preparing a cup of good tea is never ending. It's a perpetual pursue of experiments.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Why and how to raise a pot? (1)
Yixing clay was first used to make teaware in Song Dynasty, wasn't until Ming Dynasty it became popular and well spread in tea culture. To understand why Yixing teapot is superior compare to teapots made with other materials, follow topics are to be acknowledged but not limited to them:
1st of all what is Yixing clay?
2, how does a clay teapot impact tea?
3, how tea impact the clay hence improves tea itself - why raise a clay teapot?
4, how to raise a clay pot?
1st topic: what is yixing clay?
Soft clay discovered between rocky layers of mountains in Yixing region. 3 main types of clay: purple, green/yellow, red. All have high content of iron. Soft clays are left in open fields for months and years to be dried and corroded natural. Corrosion is to break up large chunks of clay into small pieces for further break down. Grinding pebble size clays into small grain size sandy clay, then soak in water for a days or even years to "ferment", the longer the better. Depending on the need and finishing texture of teaware, various size of sandy clay are used for wanted results. Sifter is used to sift therefore group similar size sandy clays before using. Number of "eyes" is number of holes of the sifter per square inch, ie 40, 80, 120 eyes, the larger the number, the finer grains they are. Pot makers mix large grains of actual sands for texture and color contrast in appearance. By theory, large grains of clay and/or mixed with sands produce more porous teapots.
Purple is most common, medium porous, green/yellow is most porous, red is the least. Purple clay varies in color by firing temperature, "fermentation" and contents of clay from different rock layers. 2 pieces of exact fermentation from the exact same batch, 1 fired at 1120 degrees is more brownish purple, the other fired at 1150 is darker brown purple, at 1200 degrees the color is a lustrous dark chocolate purple with higher pitch in sound. Purple is a general concept only. Green clay is earthy green in color before firing, becomes earthy yellow after high fire. "Little Red Clay" is similar to Zhu Ni but from 2 different mountains, Zhu Ni is no longer available for mining. Both red clays make beautiful pot and tea, even though Zhu Ni is the most sought after due to rarity for 2 main reasons. It's no longer available on earth and pots made with such clay has low success rate in finishing products. 25% shrinkage after high fire made it difficult to have perfect shaped teapots, not to mention cracked defects or imcomplete products. Pot makers were and are reluctant to make them. This does not mean Zhu Ni must be better than Xiao Hong Ni in brewing tea.
1st of all what is Yixing clay?
2, how does a clay teapot impact tea?
3, how tea impact the clay hence improves tea itself - why raise a clay teapot?
4, how to raise a clay pot?
1st topic: what is yixing clay?
Soft clay discovered between rocky layers of mountains in Yixing region. 3 main types of clay: purple, green/yellow, red. All have high content of iron. Soft clays are left in open fields for months and years to be dried and corroded natural. Corrosion is to break up large chunks of clay into small pieces for further break down. Grinding pebble size clays into small grain size sandy clay, then soak in water for a days or even years to "ferment", the longer the better. Depending on the need and finishing texture of teaware, various size of sandy clay are used for wanted results. Sifter is used to sift therefore group similar size sandy clays before using. Number of "eyes" is number of holes of the sifter per square inch, ie 40, 80, 120 eyes, the larger the number, the finer grains they are. Pot makers mix large grains of actual sands for texture and color contrast in appearance. By theory, large grains of clay and/or mixed with sands produce more porous teapots.
Purple is most common, medium porous, green/yellow is most porous, red is the least. Purple clay varies in color by firing temperature, "fermentation" and contents of clay from different rock layers. 2 pieces of exact fermentation from the exact same batch, 1 fired at 1120 degrees is more brownish purple, the other fired at 1150 is darker brown purple, at 1200 degrees the color is a lustrous dark chocolate purple with higher pitch in sound. Purple is a general concept only. Green clay is earthy green in color before firing, becomes earthy yellow after high fire. "Little Red Clay" is similar to Zhu Ni but from 2 different mountains, Zhu Ni is no longer available for mining. Both red clays make beautiful pot and tea, even though Zhu Ni is the most sought after due to rarity for 2 main reasons. It's no longer available on earth and pots made with such clay has low success rate in finishing products. 25% shrinkage after high fire made it difficult to have perfect shaped teapots, not to mention cracked defects or imcomplete products. Pot makers were and are reluctant to make them. This does not mean Zhu Ni must be better than Xiao Hong Ni in brewing tea.
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Lao An Shun - Zhang Yan Ming's dad
1 of 2 most famous pot making families in the Chao Zhou region is Zhang's 章氏. Zhang Yan Ming teapots can be found easily, some are collectible items. Beautiful hand made pots, but takes longer to raise. 100 sessions of tea drinking should do the trick. If 3 sessions in a day, 3 days drying after 3 days usage, which will take about 2 months of drinking and polishing to give it a luster shine and great flavor.
Lao An Shun is a brand name owned and made by the father. Rumor has it that pots he made 20 some years ago was so thin and well balance, it won't tip over placing over water with lid on, floats like a boat. I have not tried it with this pot, but tempting.
Lao An Shun is a brand name owned and made by the father. Rumor has it that pots he made 20 some years ago was so thin and well balance, it won't tip over placing over water with lid on, floats like a boat. I have not tried it with this pot, but tempting.
Friday, August 17, 2007
Tea, a love potion
When drinking tea, my mood is usually at peace, or slightly happy, some times even a little dreamy especially alone. When I truly enjoy a seating of tea, relaxation and the calming effect are what I want to achieve most of the time.
Once in a while tea makes me think about life. Some one once said there are only 2 things we human live and long for: pride and love. Of course that's after we are fed and clothed. Eat better, dress better, live in a bigger house, drive a faster car makes us proud (not necessary happier). Drinking good tea is prideful to a tea connoisseur. Yeah, you know you are, don't deny it! Finding good tea is some what like love, you hear it, you see others own it, and you may even have a taste.
Can love between a man and a woman be more like an affair of a tea leaf and water, selflessly devote all that they have without reserve. Water contributes its pureness, its fluid liquid bodily texture, embracing each and every leaf. Leaves wholesomely give away its lively freshness taste, aroma, nutrient to water which allows it to dance and expand any way it wishes to. Tea, a concoction of love between a leaf and water in my cup. A love potion?!
Human are selfish creatures. We want, we fear, we reserve. True love is a lot like rare tea, limited stock, except it's a lot rarer than rare tea.
Once in a while tea makes me think about life. Some one once said there are only 2 things we human live and long for: pride and love. Of course that's after we are fed and clothed. Eat better, dress better, live in a bigger house, drive a faster car makes us proud (not necessary happier). Drinking good tea is prideful to a tea connoisseur. Yeah, you know you are, don't deny it! Finding good tea is some what like love, you hear it, you see others own it, and you may even have a taste.
Can love between a man and a woman be more like an affair of a tea leaf and water, selflessly devote all that they have without reserve. Water contributes its pureness, its fluid liquid bodily texture, embracing each and every leaf. Leaves wholesomely give away its lively freshness taste, aroma, nutrient to water which allows it to dance and expand any way it wishes to. Tea, a concoction of love between a leaf and water in my cup. A love potion?!
Human are selfish creatures. We want, we fear, we reserve. True love is a lot like rare tea, limited stock, except it's a lot rarer than rare tea.
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
Kung fu is not Kung fu
Kung Fu is known to many as martial art. Kung Fu tea therefore is related to martial art by default. Perhaps tea drank by martial art practitioners is called Kung Fu tea?! Perhaps tea must be drunk while making Kung Fu moves?!
Kung in Kung Fu tea is different from Kung in Kung Fu in Chinese writing and meaning. Although both pronounce the same, they actually take on different meanings.
Kung Fu Tea : 工 /work/worker/skill/profession/trade/craft/labor
Kung Fu: 功 /merit/achievement/result/service/accomplishment
Kung in Kung Fu tea is different from Kung in Kung Fu in Chinese writing and meaning. Although both pronounce the same, they actually take on different meanings.
Kung Fu Tea : 工 /work/worker/skill/profession/trade/craft/labor
Kung Fu: 功 /merit/achievement/result/service/accomplishment
Saturday, August 04, 2007
"Raising" Yixing pots
An unclear subject in this part of the world far away from the region where clay pots were made: how to raise an Yixing pot?
3 basic ways:
1, internal raise - brew tea without pouring and polishing (slow, lid and pot might become different in color)
2, external raise - pour tea over exterior and polish (temporary and clog outside pores)
3, internal and external raise - brew tea and pour tea over exterior (fastest and common)
Contrary to common belief - soaking pots in tea over night to speed up the raising process, one shall rinse with hot water after finish using the pot then let dry in air. Another common belief is use the same pot continuously for a long period of time, on contrary, clay must be dried completely before absorbing new layers of tea oil. Use pot for 3 days and let dry for another 3 days before using again. It takes about 3 days for clay to dry completely inside and out, by inside, it is between the 2 out side surfaces of the wall.
3 basic ways:
1, internal raise - brew tea without pouring and polishing (slow, lid and pot might become different in color)
2, external raise - pour tea over exterior and polish (temporary and clog outside pores)
3, internal and external raise - brew tea and pour tea over exterior (fastest and common)
Contrary to common belief - soaking pots in tea over night to speed up the raising process, one shall rinse with hot water after finish using the pot then let dry in air. Another common belief is use the same pot continuously for a long period of time, on contrary, clay must be dried completely before absorbing new layers of tea oil. Use pot for 3 days and let dry for another 3 days before using again. It takes about 3 days for clay to dry completely inside and out, by inside, it is between the 2 out side surfaces of the wall.
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Wash your water
When I first heard of the concept of washing water, I was dumbfounded. The idea appears as controversially undoable, yet brilliantly genius!
Most of us "serious" tea drinkers are aware of water is the mother of tea. Without good water, even the 50's pu-erh would taste less than average. While there are many bottled water companies claim to be the purest or best spring water on earth, do we trust them enough to put our precious tea leaves on line? Especially when we are away from home without any idea what brand to trust, washing your water before brewing tea is the next to best solution although it takes some time and effort.
Obtain several spring waters by different makers and from different regions, mix them all in one large container, preferably clay or ceramic ware, let it rest for 6 hours, use only the top 3/4 without disturbing the bottom portion. Here you have "washed" clean water for your tea.
Minerals from each bottled water react to each other, also neutralize PH balance. In some cases, condensation of the residues is visible, noticeably cloudy and thick at the bottom 1/4.
Love your tea? You can love your tea even away from home!
Most of us "serious" tea drinkers are aware of water is the mother of tea. Without good water, even the 50's pu-erh would taste less than average. While there are many bottled water companies claim to be the purest or best spring water on earth, do we trust them enough to put our precious tea leaves on line? Especially when we are away from home without any idea what brand to trust, washing your water before brewing tea is the next to best solution although it takes some time and effort.
Obtain several spring waters by different makers and from different regions, mix them all in one large container, preferably clay or ceramic ware, let it rest for 6 hours, use only the top 3/4 without disturbing the bottom portion. Here you have "washed" clean water for your tea.
Minerals from each bottled water react to each other, also neutralize PH balance. In some cases, condensation of the residues is visible, noticeably cloudy and thick at the bottom 1/4.
Love your tea? You can love your tea even away from home!
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Tea is magic?
Now that I am in business, exposure to the public allows me to view tea through non-tea-drinkers' lenses. The general questions if not the first question is health related. Do you have a tea that helps "my condition"? Do you have teas that can get rid of my tummy fat? Do you have teas that help me loose weight so that I don't have to exercises? Which tea burns more fat? Which tea has the most anti-oxidant? Do you have a brochure that list what kind of tea does what for your body? I think your tea will fly off the shelf if you can describe this tea looses weight, that tea lowers blood pressure... etc etc..... We use that as a guide to buy tea.
My business might triple if I were selling herbs instead of tea and I might be more successful as an herbalist than just a tea drinker. And if I were lacked of conscience, I should false advertise or maybe over stretch the benefits. Oh, some one actually asked if we serve opium in the back!!!!! Oh boy, I should be rolling on a Rolls Royce only if that was true, and don't forget the blink blinks looking like a pimp. Oy!
Aside of all jokes, tea can be very beneficial to human body in moderation and suitable for your health condition. I don't feel like repeating what I tell people day in and day out about how tea can effect one's body with just a "green tea", the most popular term. The questions made me realize how long the road is ahead of me to spread the knowledge about tea, especially the art of tea. There will be many many lectures before I can reach my favorite topic.
My business might triple if I were selling herbs instead of tea and I might be more successful as an herbalist than just a tea drinker. And if I were lacked of conscience, I should false advertise or maybe over stretch the benefits. Oh, some one actually asked if we serve opium in the back!!!!! Oh boy, I should be rolling on a Rolls Royce only if that was true, and don't forget the blink blinks looking like a pimp. Oy!
Aside of all jokes, tea can be very beneficial to human body in moderation and suitable for your health condition. I don't feel like repeating what I tell people day in and day out about how tea can effect one's body with just a "green tea", the most popular term. The questions made me realize how long the road is ahead of me to spread the knowledge about tea, especially the art of tea. There will be many many lectures before I can reach my favorite topic.
Friday, June 22, 2007
My baby nephew and niece under the cherry tree
Since the opening of the tea lounge, time is a scarcity (not that it was ever not), visiting my family has not been on the schedule for weeks. I miss my niece and nephew tremendously. My mom is bit edgy when I don't show my face once in a while. The only time I get to see them is on days they come to visit. My niece is happy to have her tea party and snackies on the platform. How cute they are under my cherry tree. I wish I could spend more time with them especially when they are little. Missing their days of growing up is a heavy price to pay. I made a request to have my sis-in-law to taking them and my mom to visit this Sunday. Lovely!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Pictures of the Pu-erh event
Pictures of pu-erhs we tasted yesterday.
Will, Louise and guest.
Sean, Nick, Mindy and Mr. Liang in pink.
Jonathan, Danica and Guang. $5 if you could guess whose choppers are in the back! :P
90's green big tree, 2nd infusion I think.
90's green big tree leaf.
I'll post more details when I have more time.
Hand held yixing roaster
I picked up this little gadget a couple of weeks ago. Some time ago, I tried re-roasting old leaves on the stove with pleasant result. When I saw this little Yixing clay roaster, my curiosity got the best of me.
After weeks of hectic schedule of the opening and other business matters, I finally remember my new toy. The description says roasting fermented or semi-fermented tea before brewing can enhance the aroma and intensity of the flavor. 4 teas were roasted this afternoon. I am tea drunk now. I must had 12 different kinds tea today. The first one I roasted was a 9 yrs old loose imperial cooked pu by menghai. The result was very dramatic in flavor and aroma, especially the smoothness. The second one I tried was a 2006 lao banzhang. This is the one that got many of us high at our LA tea tasting. The reason I wanted to roast this cake is to soften the edgy rawness and hopefully the "drunken effect". The flavor turned out smoother and sweeter, less fragrant, but the "drunken effect" was very much present like the previous tastings. I then ventured to black tea, Jiu Qu Hong Mei. I like this black tea as is to begin with. It's the chosen one for the reason that it is my favorite black tea among my current stocks. Smooth mouth feel with lotsa plum like sweetness. I thought roasting it might enhance the ripen plum aroma. Turned out, it did not make much difference. The 4th was a 2000 yiwu zheng shan green cake. This cake was over dehydrated in my previous tastings. Dry fall leave like smell with the look to go with it. It was not my favorite, in fact disappointing when I tried it the first time. After roasting the imperial loose pu with good result, I thought this might be the right choice to test with. Wow, I was right about that. The taste improved 3 folds. The aroma, the smoothness and sweetness all came out much nicer than before. The dryness is still there tho. I think I'll unwrap the extra tissues, let it expose to the marine layers for another month, then try again. It might do wonders next time.
Over all, I am very happy with this new gadget!
Roasting tea before brewing was a common practice back in the Tang's dynasty. Tea were compressed in bricks at the time. It's a skill to roast the tea then grind into powder before brewing, tea powder was boiled/cooked over open fire at that time. Some minority tribes in Yunnan also roast tea before brewing, each has their own ways of roasting and utensils.
Sunday, June 10, 2007
The gang's in da house
Behind the bar are (left to right) Louise, Will, Phyll, me and Nick.
I am extremely thankful to the LA Tea Affair gang whom volunteered their knowledge of tea at my opening tea party. It was such a fun event that some of the customers came back today telling me how much they learned from these guys the day before. A 12 years old little girl came again today and talked the tea lingo she learned from yesterday, sounded like a little tea connoisseur. It's absolutely amazing and funny. It's how I envision LA tea affair will become with a bigger crowd! It'd be great to have more open tea-bar events in the future. A couple (both are teachers) suggested a tea function at the South Coast Botanical Garden or the local library. That sounds like a beautiful idea that I should explore the possibility.
I have to thank CM (front left, next to the orchid)! He's the one took me to the desserts cafe in SD which lead to my own tea lounge. We met in Singapore 2.5 years ago, on a tour bus to the botanical garden which is famous for its 1000+ species of orchids. Yes, I am a tea addict and obsessing over orchids at the same time.
Wednesday, June 06, 2007
Saturday, June 02, 2007
Story of the name
In case any of my dear readers wonder about the name of my tea lounge Tea Habitat. The process of picking out a name was not immediate. It took about 6 months of writing down every name came to mind on a spread sheet, checking back every week or so to see which one I still like and which ones were taken. Tea Habitat is my final choice and I like it more each time it comes to mind. Human are habitual beings, whether it's good or bad. A habitat is a natural environment to develop a habit or habits, in this case where tea can nourish our body and mind. Supposedly a good habit and possibly an addictive habit. :P
Chinese name on the other hand has a long story. I'll have to explain that later when I am not as tired. Sorry folks, will continue tomorrow. I'll get off work at 5pm. It's a short day! Some how I find that funny.
柒月茶軒 - Seven (fraud prove form) moon tea pavilion, word for word translation. July tea pavilion is a more literate translation. 柒 is the same as 七 . The 3 drops of water on the upper left and wood at the bottom signify livelihood, wood (plants) grow on water, water nourishes plants, tea plants in my case. This is the year of 2007 and I was born in July, tea is one of the 7 essentials of Chinese every day life, "seven things upon door opening, fire wood, rice, oil, salt, soysauce, vinegar, tea". Meaning 7 must haves as soon as the day begins. Tea is the number 7th item. 月 Moon is the first time measuring "unit" known to man. It's closely related to females from the beginning of human history. A monthly event every women must endure which synchronizes with the moon cycles, an inspiration for males to tell time relating to the moon. I think it's quite sacred in terms of human revolution. Other than the planet moon, as a female, I feel like honoring and celebrating the inspiration from women's hardship to the significance of our everyday life, although often neglected, or even unknown to many. 茶 tea, well, it's tea and a must have. :P 軒 pavilion, it happens to be one of the 3 characters in my brother's name. For his name, it means confident and noble. The most common endings of a tea shop are house, chamber, pavilion. All of those hidden meanings combined into 4 little characters. Chinese literature never cease to amaze me, especially my knowledge of Chinese is considered inadequate.
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